Spray paint - Page 2

mully537 · #16 03-02-2008, 06:28 PM

funny you ask,prior to dipping this most recent batch i looked at the pail that ive used for the past 2 years and figured it was time to refresh it.im not sure that i had to though.if you know enough to keep it in a sealed container im sure you know the combustability and fire hazard, so be safe we dont want these plugs burned up before we or the fish see them!

VTBasser · #17 03-04-2008, 02:09 AM

I just went though researching how to do this and this is what I am using...

Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane for sealer. Cut down with mineral spirits for dense woods - uncut for others. Soak, drip off, then wipe down. Dry in 24 hours.

Hit shiny spots with scotch-brite pad.

Zinsser BIN primer (red lable) - dip or foam brush. Dry in less than 24 hours.

BIN some scraps. Experiment with rattle cans on scraps to check for compatibility between rattle cans.

This also give you a chance to experiment with technique.

That BIN seems to be highly compatible with most all rattles I have used ($1-$6).

Roccus · #18 03-04-2008, 09:48 AM

Just about a year if you want it to keep it's drying properties..

Roccus · #19 03-04-2008, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mully537

funny you ask,prior to dipping this most recent batch i looked at the pail that ive used for the past 2 years and figured it was time to refresh it.im not sure that i had to though.if you know enough to keep it in a sealed container im sure you know the combustability and fire hazard, so be safe we dont want these plugs burned up before we or the fish see them!

The combustability comes in as the stuff dries, drying linseed oil creats heat, only on rags and paper towels does it pose a threat...

mully537 · #20 03-04-2008, 01:44 PM

just saying be careful,storing in an unsealed container leads to spill, leads to cleanup, leads to rags,leads to ?

Roccus · #21 03-04-2008, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mully537

just saying be careful,storing in an unsealed container leads to spill, leads to cleanup, leads to rags,leads to ?

Your absolutly right... keeping things safe, means keeping things fun..

A remnder once in awhile is a good thing..

mully537 · #22 03-04-2008, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roccus

Just about a year if you want it to keep it's drying properties..

i assume you meant how long the mixture is good for roc. good info . the stuff is cheap enough, i just put off getting rid of the old batch i was using. i will change it up yearly now . thanx

Roccus · #23 03-04-2008, 02:35 PM

What I've found happens, after its been exposed to air multiple times, it starts to dry gummy,even if you reitroduce new mineral spirtits... when I see this happening... I dump it... it's eaiser for me than most seeing as I run the maintenance of a large facility, and one of my departments just happens to be dealing with waste treatment and hazzardous waste..

khary23 · #24 03-04-2008, 05:29 PM

I got it in a covered in a 2 quart pail I got at home depot.

I had another question after the sealer has been drying for a few days should the wood return to its pre-soak color? I just looked at them for the first time since I soaked'em and they don't look like they have any thing on them.

mully537 · #25 03-04-2008, 05:52 PM

depends on the wood i suppose,i have only used ayc,red cedar , and mahogony. but you couild definately tell they had been dipped.

GreatSouthBayBucktails · #26 03-04-2008, 06:28 PM

E te is a pain to use , especially for a guy just doing a few . I would go with the 2 ton 30 minute Devcon

My .02

Ed White · #27 03-05-2008, 07:40 AM

khary,
My can of BLO/spirits is over a year old, I noticed it was thickening up a bit, so I just added a bit more spirits, other than that, it's been fine, and still works, I just tested a couple of unpainted plugs last night, no water intrusion.

Roccus · #28 03-05-2008, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatSouthBayBucktails

E te is a pain to use , especially for a guy just doing a few . I would go with the 2 ton 30 minute Devcon

My .02

Etex gives a better finish, if you mix it properly, warm it up to 70 or a little more, and rotate or flip the plugs you will have no issues... Devcon tends to yellow in time..also consider this... the faster something hardens, the harder it gets, Devcon is more brittle than Etex which tends to be more elastic, due to it's slow cure..

Different woods, even in the same lots, look different, some, like you said, look like they havent been touched, heart wood, especialy WRC, get alot darker.

mully537 · #29 03-05-2008, 09:40 AM

when i started doing this a couple of years ago i used devcon or a similar epoxy ,i cant remember. it worked ,but as roc said it has definately yellowed and in some cases is flaking off. a box of the e-tex is around 30 bucks i think ,and if you are only doing a few plugs here and there, it will probably last you for life.anther good tip which i just started doing is to warm it up like roc said . theres been a lot said on this in other posts and some great info.

GunnySniper · #30 03-05-2008, 09:54 AM

A tip on warming E-tex, I'm happy to share.
After I thoroughly mix the carefully measured amounts in my mixing can, I fill a pan with hot water out of the tap, around 100 degrees. I put the mixing pot into the pan. In about 5 to 10 minutes the mixture has warmed and thinned, but better yet all the air bubbles from the mixing process have released.
I especially appreciate this when I am doing epoxy fly patterns.